Travelogue Thailand
2000 #2
This Travelogue is Incomplete
Itinerary:
12/3/00-12/28/00:
Thailand
12/28/00-1/4/01:
Hong Kong
1/4/01-1/7/01:
Los Angeles
Sunday
December 3, 2000
Well, I'm going back
to Thailand again. Why? I dunno.
I like Thailand and I don’t like December, so why not?
Normally I fly
United, but this time I'm checking out American Airlines and Cathay Pacific
(they are both part of the "One World" group which is analogous to
United Airlines' "Star Alliance".)
The American Airlines Ambassador's Club in Denver is a pleasant but
unremarkable lounge. They provide free tea and coffee, but no food
whatsoever. There is a cash bar. On this Sunday evening the lounge was almost
completely empty. One of the few people
there was TV actor Gary Coleman, straight from the "where are they
now" files. We chatted briefly
about the horrors of Denver's unrestrained growth, the relative merits of
Denver vs. Los Angeles, and the mint marks on one-dollar bills. I pretended not to be phased by his celebrity. In truth though, I wasn’t pretending.
During my stopover in
Los Angeles I met my friends Richard and Heather who live here, and just
arrived in from Las Vegas. We met up at
the Encounters restaurant in the strange UFO/Jetsons building that sits in the
middle of the airport. That is the
building that is illuminated with ever changing colored lights. We were joined by the sculptor John Sisco,
who lives in Seattle but was co-incidentally traveling from LA to New York
tonight. The Encounters restaurant is
really good! It’s a tad on the
expensive side, but for an airport restaurant it is amazing.
Thailand is really,
really far away. I was picked up by the
Super Shuttle at my home in Boulder, Colorado at 3:30pm. 9 hours later I'm boarding the Cathay Pacific
flight from LA to Hong Kong at 11:30 pacific time - 12:30am Mountain Time. With air time and the stopover in Hong Kong,
I'll be landing in Bangkok only 20 hours later. By the time I get to the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit in Bangkok, my
travel time will have been about 30 hours.
You've really got to want
to go somewhere to travel for 30 hours.
Believe you me!
Monday
December 4, 2000
Due to travel and
crossing the date line, this day does not exist.
Tuesday
December 5, 2000
Cathay lounge in Hong
Kong. Shower was good, but doesn’t compare to Arrivals by United. Also, had to wait 15 minutes to get a
shower. They Cathay lounge has a number
of interesting features (like a noodle bar and a day spa), but none of them are
open at this early hour. The finger
food, fruit and beverage selection is very good thought. Also, there are free internet terminals, a
nice touch.
Arrive in Bangkok, go
to Sheraton Grande Shukhumvit. Not as
nice a room as my prior visits. The hotel is very full this time. For the first time ever I can hear people in
the rooms next door. I don’t know if
this is because they put me in a less-well insulated room, or I have never had
neighbors before. This room is fine,
but just slightly smaller than the rooms they usually put me in.
Wednesday
December 6, 2000
Lay out by the pool
reading.
Museum of science,
Sukhumvit soi 40.
Thursday
December 7, 2000
Lay out by the pool
reading.
Friday
December 8, 2000
Fly Bangkok Airways
to Ko Samui. Travel agent booked me
onto 3:30 flight, not 1:10 flight. Got
in off waitlist anyway. Bangkok Airways
built and owns the airport on Ko Samui and has a total monopoly on
flights. Thai airways only flys to
Surat Thani, have to take a ferry from there.
Uneventful flight.
Check into Amari Palm
Beach Resort. Nice. "Suite" for 5500b per night. A nice big room, not really a suite. Very comparable to Baan Sukhotai in
Phuket. I chose the Amari because it
was near the main section of Chaweng beach, but north of it so it wouldn’t be
close but not too noisy. I chose the
suite because it was the only room they had left with a king bed. The suite was 50% more than a deluxe room,
and while it is a very nice room, I expected more given the price
differential. Looking around the
complex, it appears that at least half of it is located across the street from
the beach section. In both sections a
substantial number of rooms are right on the busy, noisy street. My room is right near the beach and pool;
very quiet and with nice views. I
suspect a big part of the price is location, not size of room.
There are tons and
tons of hotels, guest houses and resorts along the main drag here. Several of the others appear to have more
beachfront, and more beachfront rooms.
The Amari has really nice deck chairs around the pool, but the deck
chairs on the beach are kinda lame. The
Blue Lagoon right next door has much nicer looking beach chairs. Also, the main drag here in Chaweng is so
long, that being on the northern edge is really being out of it. It takes a good 1/2 hour to drive from one
end of the strip to the other. Ouch.
Dinner at Yellowfin
restaurant on the beach. Food was OK,
service was horrendous. Price was good.
Check out different
discos and bars. Very happening
scene. Lots of people of all ages and
nationalities.
Saturday
December 9, 2000
Raining. Not like the rain I am used to in Thailand,
very light but continuous rain. Good
(not great) buffet breakfast at hotel (included.)
So much for the light
rain, it is now seriously pounding down with rain. But unlike the tropical showers I am used to, this is going on
and on.
Very good lunch at
hotel, watching the rain and reading.
I can't drive my
motor bike because the road is completely flooded. I take sampows everywhere (20b per ride.) It is very slow going because of the deep
water running through the streets. Dropped off laundry (35b per kilo), then
went to get massage. I had noticed two
spas during my perambulations last night, and managed to find them again
today. It turns out that Line Thai and
Classic Thai Massage, located next door to each other, are owned by the same
people. I have no idea why they don’t
just combine the two structures. I chose Line Thai (for no particular reason)
and had a 1 hour herbal oil massage and 1 hour facial. Repeatedly said I didn’t want a
"hard" massage, and they listened!
It was the nicest, most relaxing Thai massage I've ever had, not at all
painful. Attractive tranquil place, but
the long massage room is right over the street. The door to the massage room has a big "quiet please"
sign on it, but the room is noisy as hell from the non-stop traffic! Ah, Thailand.
<Compare Chaweng
to Patong. - not any smaller or quieter, less conveniently arranged.>
Had dinner at the
Long Table restaurant. Had my favorite shells with chili and sautéed morning
glories. The food was very good, the
service excellent and friendly. The
music was the worst of Muzak interspersed with performances of live musicians
playing traditional Thai music. A very
weird combination. Total price was
cheap. Recommended.
Sunday
December 10, 2000
The rain stopped
yesterday afternoon, and the stars came out briefly last night, but today it is
overcast and blowing like crazy.
Had a Thai omlete for
breakfast at the hotel. A different interpretation
from what I am used to. Went to talk to
the folks a the Discovery Dive Center.
Apparently they sent a group out on a dive today, but only because they
were doing a class and needed to do the certification dives. They expect the diving to be bad due to the
weather. They don’t have any dives
scheduled until Tuesday, but they aren't sure if that one will go off or
not. Apparently the dive season here is
almost exactly off from that of Phuket (I wish I had known that when I arrived
in Phuket off-season last year.) They
tell me the weather and diving is best here when it is summer in Europe.
For lunch went to the
restaurant on the beach at the hotel next door. Very nice covered platforms with mats and leaning pillows. Had a good Thom Kah Gai (not great.) Really enjoyed the breeze and the sound of
the waves. Afterwards, had a great
massage on the beach from the Amari hotel's certified massage people. It was really nice, on a covered platform
right on the beach, the strong winds blowing over me with the sound of the
waves. The massage wasn’t as high
quality as I had yesterday, but the environment was so nice that it was well
worth it. Then I went and got a Cuban
Monte Christo #3 cigar (800 baht) from the bar at the Amari, walked down to the
beach and smoked the whole thing while drinking a fresh green coconut and
staring at the sea. It would take a lot
more than a Michelob to make life better than this! The wind is really amazing.
I had a number of conversations with vendors on the beach. There are almost no customers out today
because of the clouds and winds. Even
though I wasn’t buying anything, they seemed to enjoy chatting with me anyway. I think they thought a guy smoking a cigar
and smiling goofily at the sea was amusing.
Had another excellent
dinner at the Long Table restaurant.
Monday
December 11, 2000
Another dreary,
windy, rainy day. I hope the plane to
Phuket can take off in this wind!
Sat at breakfast and
watched the hotel's guareners climb the beautiful coconut palm trees and cut
out most of their leaves. Afterards the
trees look lousy. The explanation they
gave me is that it is now the windy/rainy season, and the trees might fall
over. Clearly Lonely Planet was right
about not going to Ko Samui in December.
The "full moon party" on Ko Phang Nga is tonight, but I cant
deal with that scene. Also, the weather
is sucking. I think going to Phuket is
a better idea.
The two o'clock
flight on Bangkok Airways was completely uneventful. Though only 50 minutes long, they managed to serve sandwiches and
a couple rounds of drinks. The Samui
airport is quite pleasant and very low key.
In Phuket I am staying at the Orchid Residence
Patong, (171/22 Soi San Sabai, 66-76-345176
orchidr@phket.loxinfo.co.th, www.orchidresidence.de.) This is a hotel that I had checked out on my
last visit when I got tired of the Sand Inn.
The rate is 1680 baht (about US$39) for a deluxe room, which is quite
reasonable for Phuket in high season.
The place is pretty nice, having been recently built. However, the staff isn't nearly as nice as
at the Sand Inn, and didn’t help me bring my luggage up the 4 flights of stairs
to my room. Also, the room was not as quiet as I had hoped. Patong Beach's inexorable growth has
resulted in ever more bustle and noise. Though the Orchid Residence is much
further up the road from the main drag, the street noise has grown to reach
this further stronghold. The Orchid
Residence has a few other drawbacks as well; the bed and pillows are
exceedingly hard (I later discovered that the mattress has two sides, the side
which was made up as the top was hard as a board, the underside had some
padding - I flipped it over myself.)
Also, they provide virtually no amenities. Just a couple tiny bars of soap, and nothing else. No free potable water, no shampoo at all,
etc. Oh well. Easily remedied at the 7-11.
One last odd thing about the Orchid Residence; thought the place is very
new and looks clean and serviceable, all of the linens look like they got them
second hand from some bowery hotel.
After checking in I went down to the beach and had a
swim. It was so nice after Samui - the
water was warm and the air was pleasant, so I lay on my back in the surf and
watched the sun set.
For dinner I went to the Malee Seafood Restaurant located
among the collection of open-air seafood restaurants on 200 Year Road. I had my favorite shells in curry sauce and
curried mud crab. Though the seafood in
Samui had been good, the Phuket seafood is just amazing. I dream of this stuff.
Tuesday
December 12, 2000
Wow is Patong Beach
crowded! I haven't been here in
December in quite some time, and it is really jammed. Totally overrun. The
beach was chock-a-block with people, noisy, crowded and downright
unpleasant. Hi ho. The water was still nice, but the incessant
speedboats, longtails, and jetskies really impinged on the environment. One thing about Samui, the beach was
tranquil.
<very Mediocre
lunch at Number 6 restaurant on the beach.
Just as poor as last time I was here.>
<researched dive
operations, signed up with Scandinavian Divers for 4 day Similans trip.>
<fried red snapper
with chillies at one of the seafood restaurants. Not made the way I like it -
Europeanized, not spicy. The fish was
so damned fresh that it was good anyway.>
Wednesday
December 13, 2000
Excellent Thai Omelet
at Number 6 restaurant on 200 Year Road (not Number 6 on the beach).
Packed up and checked
out, went to the beach, wandered around, got a massage on the beach. Told the woman repeatedly that I didn’t want
a hard massage, but clearly she knew better.
Ouch. All the noise from the
loud tourists, blazing stereos from the restaurants and bars, and watercraft
conspired to make the experience singularly unrelaxing.
It is blazingly hot
today. Downright unpleasant.
Had another excellent
meal at Malee Restaurant (now avoiding the other place that has become badly
westernized.) Then went to the
Scandinavian Divers office to meet up for the Similans trip. This trip is going to be great, a fun group
of people. This operation leaves
directly from the dock in Patong Beach instead of the schlep out to Chalong Bay
that is required for the Scuba Cat operation.
<about the boat:
Silver Arrow. Huge, underutilized,
insane layout.>
Thursday
December 14, 2000
A stunningly
beautiful day today, sunny, clear with a cool breeze coming up off the ocean, I
awake at 6:30am to find us anchored next to Similan Island #4. We have a little pre-breakfast snack then do
our first dive at 7:30am.
Breakfast (eggs)
Dive (hard current,
very little to see.)
Excellent lunch (my
favorite shells!)
Really good dive
Dinner
Skip the night dive
Insanely hard bed
(consistency of a nicely padded linoleum floor.) Hard pillows, noisy room right near the engines and the kitchen.
No sinks on board,
only 4 tiny toilet rooms with handheld showers. Nowhere to brush your teeth, shave, wash hands, etc. Stupid.
Also no amenities (no towels, no soap, no shampoo, ear drying drops,
sunscreen…)
Dive deck is terribly
laid out. There is plenty of room, but
it is organized all wrong. Divers
tripping all over each other. It is
hard to get the tanks out of the tank holders.
There is nowhere to put cameras and computers. This boat has tons and tons of room, all of it is organized
wrong. Given this much space I could
design a better dive boat with a scant minute or two of thought. There are only 11 paying guests on this trip,
plus 5 dive masters and instructors, plus a Thai crew. They tell me that the boat can hold 40, but
Scandinavian Divers never puts more than 24 guests on the boat. With 11 people the boat functions fairly
well in spite of its poor design. I
think with 24 people it would completely fall apart. 40 would be insanity.
Though the boat has worked out pretty well for my trip, I think I would
avoid it in the future, lest I find myself on board with a full compliment.
Friday
December 15, 2000
Another stunning
day. Up at 7am, then into the water at
Tachai's Reef by 8am. I screwed up and
didn’t have my booties, so I wasn’t ready for the entry. The dive master went in before I was ready,
I rushed and jumped in before I was ready.
I was all ungepaqued; my weight belt came undone as I was going down the
mooring line - I held the weight belt with one hand while tracking the mooring
line with my elbow and attempting to equalize my ears. By the time I was at the bottom, had my
weight belt on and my shit together I had wasted a lot of air. The rest of the dive was quite beautiful.
Breakfast
Sunshine, sleep
Richelieu rock
Lunch
Sleep
Dive - awesome dive,
mating cuttlefish (other two groups had aborted dives!)
Unfortunately a storm
was coming in and the current got quite strong, so the night dive was
cancelled.
Saturday
December 16, 2000
Dive master tells us
all to get ready long before the captain has us near the dive site. We stand out on the dive deck for 5 minutes
sweltering in our wetsuits and gear, breathing the diesel fumes while the boats
steams to the site. Poor
coordination. I am used to situations
where the boat gets to the site, then we get ready; this is painful.
Always do dingy
exits. I hate dingys. I keep pulling my left shoulder muscle
climbing into the dingy. The Thai crew
does a very poor job helping us into the dingy, often standing where I am
trying to climb in.
Dive
Breakfast
Dive
Lunch
Dive
Trip to island #4,
heavy rain while walking through forest to the other side of the island.
Totally soaked.
Dinner
Boring night dive.
One of the Sweedish
guys gets an electrical shock going up the stairs, then we see blue flames
arcing from a wire to the side of the boat.
Someone pulls out a 1 quart fire extinguisher. It turns out that this one tiny extinguisher is the only fire
extinguisher on the entire boat. Oh,
by the way, there are no life preservers so you’d better not fall overboard.
Sunday
December 17, 2000
Woke up really tired
this morning. First dive was OK, by my
mind was elsewhere, and there was nothing exceptional on the dive at all. No sharks, nor cuttlefish, octopus, turtles,
etc. Really nothing to report.
After breakfast I
really didn’t feel like doing the final dive.
At the last minute I decided that I would go on the dive. On the dive deck the Thai crew was in the
way instead of helping (as usual), but this time trying to step around the
deck-hand I tripped on the dive deck, fell in the water, and lost my weight
belt. As I came up I was almost hit by
the dingy. Everyone else was heading
down, and the boat was pulling away, not noticing that I was having a
problem. I sent my buddy down with
another group and attempted to swim back to the boat to get a new weight
belt. Between the current taking me one
way and the boat heading off the other, I was soon alone in the water. I inflated my safety sausage and waited for
the dingy which came and picked me up.
On the boat they were very apologetic and offered to send me down with
Sam, the dive boat's company representative, but I decided to take the sign
that this dive was not meant to be.
I took a nice long
shower and relaxed.
I've been trying to
figure out what it is about this operation that just doesn’t quite work. Clearly I am spoiled; Mike Ball in Australia
runs a very tight operation. Here in Thailand my friend Sergio on Scuba Cat somehow
manages to make everything go smoothly. But on this trip a dozen little things
were just a bit off, there were rough edges.
Every dive they would tell us to get ready, I would feel very rushed,
then we would stand there on the dive deck for 10 minutes while the boat got
into position. Sweating in my wet suit,
standing there with the tank on my back, I was usually tired before we even got
into the water. Finally the boat is in
position and then its everyone into the water at once in a mad, uncoordinated
rush. In 60 prior dives I've never
tripped on the dive deck and fallen in, I've never had a weight belt come
loose, nor have I ever seen anyone else lose a weight belt. On this trip one guy lost two weight belts
on one dive! I had my belt come lose on the first day,
then lost a belt today. The Thai crew,
thought pleasant, hurt more than they help, tightening my fins too tight,
standing in the way, etc. Last night
getting into the dingy I pulled myself up onto the pontoon, then couldn’t get
the rest of the way into the dingy because one of the crew stepped right in
front of me and started fiddling with the outboard motor. I had to yell at him to move. On the dive deck they arrange our tanks so
that all the tanks for one group of divers are next to each other. That means that a group cannot get suited up
at the same time.
Then there are the
dives. This time around we saw
absolutely nothing "big" (or what divers like to call
"big".) No sharks, a fair
number of small blue spotted rays, but no big rays. No Napoleon Wrasses, certainly no whale sharks. There were no octopus. During the dive briefings Kay would give
lengthy descriptions of the sea life would could expect to see. We rarely saw any of the things she
described. What went wrong? Is it the time of year, the currents, the
particular dive sites we went to and the particular times we went there? Or does my friend Sergio just know something that these people don’t
know. I suspect that the reality is
that after diving here for over 10 years, he simply knows when to go to each
dive site, exactly what path to follow, what time of day is best for what set
of currents. People in Phuket say that
Sergio sees more whale sharks than anyone else. Perhaps he just has the touch.
His Thai crew was so helpful that they were overly helpful. His boat is a lot smaller, but it works 10
times better. [Please note: Sergio is a friend of mine, but I am attempting to
give an honest comparison.] Don’t get
me wrong, the Scandinavian Divers people were not slacking off, they were
helpful and friendly and tried to make this a great trip, and it was a great
trip, but Sergio in Phuket and Mike Ball in Australia just do it better.
We got back to Phuket
around 5pm, and I checked back into the Orchid Residence hotel. This time they put me into room 106, a
small, dark room with only a tiny window, noisily located behind the reception
and kitchen area. Again the bed was
made with the rock-hard side up, so I unmade it and flipped it over.
The plan was for
everyone from the boat to meet up at 8pm, have dinner, and hit the town. I was pretty sure I'd be unhappy with the
dinner plans, so I went out to Malee seafood restaurant for a nice dinner of
deep fried fish with chilis. It was
good, though not as excellent as their curried shells and curried crab. When I later met up with the dive group, we
walked down to the beach and went to (drumroll please), Number 6 Restaurant on
the beach. The place I used to eat
lunch all the time, but no longer go to because it has gone downhill. The dishes that were ordered were quite
small portions and did not look like very authentic preparations, though
everyone seemed to enjoy the food a lot.
Later we went barhopping for a while, but the ground was swaying so much
from my "sea legs", that I packed it in early.
Monday
December 18, 2000
Got up this morning
to find that the room I am in is insanely noisy as the hotel staff starts out
the day at 6am. Also, there is only
enough hot water to last for 1/2 a shower.
I don’t need to leave for the airport until 1pm, so I asked for late
checkout. They tell me they cannot give
me late checkout as the hotel is full and they have a guest waiting for my
room. Almost every other hotel on the
street has open rooms. Hmmm. I think I am done with this hotel.
I go out for
breakfast, and then walk around town checking out some other hotels for future reference. Here is some of what I found:
1)
Hotel Summer Breeze 171/12 Soi San Sabai, next door to the Orchid
Residence. (66-76) 340464. bakless@loxinfo.co.th, http://www.phuket-summerbreeze.com
Looks pretty good, but some of the superior rooms are small internal rooms with
no windows. The beds are hard. High
season prices range from 1900b for a suite to 1300b for an interior superior
room. There are safes in the rooms.
2)
Sansabai bungalows, 171/21 Soi Sansabai, (66-76) 342948-9/292541, info@phuket-sansabai.com. Genuine bungalows in garden setting. A bit run down, but still serviceable. 1600b in the high season for a stand-alone
bungalow with air conditioning. Less in
low season. A big sign in the bathroom warns not to put toilet paper in the
toilet.
3)
C&N Hotel, 151 Rat-u-thit Song Roi Pee Rd. 076-341892-5, cnhotel@hotmail.com
They have recently completed a new wing that is set farther back from the main
road. Rooms in the new wing are nicer
than old wing (no surprise.) Basically
standard Patong accommodations.
Serviceable but not fancy. The
place is quite cheap at 1200b high
season, 600b low season.
At 1pm I am picked up by a private car for the 500b, 45
minute drive to the airport, then a 1 hour wait in the Thai Royal Orchid room
before my flight to Bangkok.
Check in to Royal President Hotel, Sukhumvit at Soi 15,
“Ruby Suite”. Blew up electric
toothbrush. Price is 1650b (US$38) for
a suite with kitchenette, living room, bedroom, big bathroom. Not as nice as Sheraton, but pretty damned
nice. I don’t know why the prices they
list on the internet are US$80-US$150.
They do themselves a disservice driving potential customers away with
incorrect high prices quoted online.
Tuesday December 19, 2000
Spent over an hour getting a ticket at the lousy travel
agency for travel to Phnom Penh and Siem Reip.
Checked out of hotel at 4pm without warning them first, but they didn’t
charge me for the extra day - how nice!
Flew Royal Air Cambodge from Bangkok to Phnom Penh. Nice jet plane. There is a business class section, but the lousy travel agent had
told me there was only one class of service.
Even though I bought a full-fare ticket, when I asked about purchasing
an upgrade at the airport they told me my ticket was non-upgradable and I would
have to buy a whole new ticket. Oh
well, the flight is only an hour.
Uneventful flight, reasonable food served.
At the airport, met by representative of Hotel Le Royal on the tarmac! He takes my passport and
visa documents and leads me through immigration and customs, all the while telling
me about how all the police are friends of his. In spite of his "connections", it actually seems to
take longer for me to get through immigration than the other passengers who
don’t have escorts.
Hotel Le Royal, one of the Raffles hotels, is really really
beautiful.
At 10pm every restaurant in town is closed. Hotel restaurants are closed. Take hotel car and drive around until we
find an interesting looking Khmer/Chinese restaurant on the street. Have some good food that I chose at random -
hot pot, bbq pork with fat noodles. Am
surprised to discover that Khmer food is not spicy. Heavy rain.
Wednesday December 20, 2000
Arrange for car for tour of Phnom Penh. Go to Wat Phnom, among the least interesting
wats I have ever seen. Beggars are relentless,
very hot, nothing much to see.
Lunch at R. Ponlok restaurant overlooking Tonle Sap river.
Central Market, Grand Palace, National Museum.
> Lots and lots of shops that sell rubber stamps - rubber
stamping things must be very important here!
Barrelling down with rain.
Dinner at <name?> restaurant over the Japanese bridge on the
Mekong river (name?) Same show as at
Joking Star in Bangkok - same singing and physical comedy, except here I don’t
understand even a single word.
Foreign Correspondents Club - Wow. What a cool place. Totally hip, fun, relaxed, not
contrived. So cool I even bought a
t-shirt for the unbelievable price of US$15.
Sure that’s less than a Metallica tour shirt, but hey, this is Cambodia.
Rained heavily all night.
Thursday December 21, 2000
Drive around town.
There are cigarette advertisements everywhere - everything is sponsored
by a couple of cigarette companies (555 and Mild Seven.) There is one billboard that makes me wonder
- it is a Mild Seven cigarettes billboard showing a spandex-clad mountain biker
on a tricked out bike doing a big jump with the snow-capped Rocky Mountains in
the background. Everyone in Cambodia
rides a bike, but they are 50 pound utilitarian clunkers. I wonder if anyone here has the cultural context
to make sense of these billboards.
Try to get to Tol Suok museum, but couldn’t due to
flooding. Every street is covered in
feet of water. At the edges of the
pools of water people work furiously on their motor bikes trying to get them
dry enough to start up again after running them through the flooded
streets. The car tries several
approaches and finally we give up. We
also cant get to the Killing Fields.
Go to a couple Wats: Wat Lang Ka was closed, but we were
able to watch some workmen building a new stupa. Nearby, walked by the Victory Monument. Second Wat, talk with some monks in English, French and
Thai. They invite me back to their room
where we chat for a while.
Lunch at a Thai restaurant named Chiang Mai, very good.
Fly Royal Air Cambodge to Siem Reap. 50 minute flight, uneventful. $5 for car from to Grand Hotel D’Angkor,
another of the Raffles group and certainly tied with Hotel Le Royal for best
hotel in Cambodia. Stunningly beautiful
room at the significantly
discounted rate of (what? 275++?) per day. Rate includes breakfast and dinner each day, making it slightly
more tolerable. Hotel is full. Room is beaufitul, but smaller than the room
in Phnom Penh.
At about 4:30 I paid $10 to have the hotel car take me over
to Angkor Wat for sunset. Sunset is
said to be astounding there. Spend a
long time at the entrance gate buying a three day pass (US$40), which requires
having a passport photo taken to put on the pass (free.) [Aside: I later
learned that the entrance fees are collected by a Vietnamese hotel management
group which owns a concession for Angkor Wat admissions. Apparently none of the
money goes to Angkor Wat, nor anyone in Cambodia, aside from the original
concession fee.] Getting the pass
tonight means that I don’t have to go through this rigmarole tomorrow morning,
and also I can get in this evening before 5:30. Otherwise I would have had to pay for a full day to enter, or
wait until the 5:30 closing time to enter for free. By 5:00pm I have my pass and we drive in to the complex. The driver takes me up to the west gate of
Angkor Wat and I get my first view of this legendary place. [Tour Wat as sun
sets, kids show me around, difficulty working my way back down in the dark, give
the kids a couple bucks each.]
Dinner at hotel in fine restaurant. Yummy Khmere/French cuisine.
Friday December 22, 2000
Breakfast at hotel (very nice buffet spread with option of
made-to-order omelets.) Then, 8:30am
start. I have arranged for a private
car and tour guide. A huge extravagance
vs. what most tourists do, but I really want to see this place well. [Consider; value, prices, $45/day for two
people’s time, less than US minimum wage.
Opportunity cost of being in Cambodia.]
Start out at Angkor Thom.
Story: relentless vendors selling books “I already have that
one”, “No. You not have this
one.” “Yes, I have that one.”
“One more, only $3. Three dollar, three
dollar, mister three dollar, three dollar.”
Finally I say “Mai ow, khrap kuhn kahp”. Without missing a beat the girl says “Loi ha-sip baht, loi ha-sip
baht, loi ha-sip baht.” “Mai ow, mai ow
khrap kuhn kahp”, I say. She turns away
and goes up to a tourist walking behind me, “three dollar, three dollar, only
three dollar”, she waves the book in his face. I hear him say to her “Mai ow
khrap kuhn kahp”, and she walks away.
Another man says to him “What did you say to her?” He replies “I don’t know, but it worked for that guy” (pointing to me.)
Angkor Wat
View of Angkor Wat at sunset from hill Phnom Bakheng
Dinner and show of traditional dancing at hotel.
Preah Khan
Ta Prohm
Tonle Sap lake, nice drive to river, river boat trip,
Vietnamese boat people.
Tried to get out on earlier flight. Even though it was 45 minutes before
departure, the woman at the gate told me that the plan was already boarded, and
even though there was room on the plane I couldn’t get on.
Got back in car, drove to Western Barrado. Ate, watched kids, had fun, bought souvenirs
from pesky vendor kids.
Back to airport, flying Bangkok Airways from Siem Reap to
Bangkok. Chose Bangkok Airways for this
final leg at extra cost because Royal Air Cambodge did not have an evening
flight. Would have had to leave in the
morning.
Adding insult to the earlier injury of not letting me on the
earlier flight, my scheduled flight is delayed 1 hour.
w
Macau: Lou Lim Ieoc Gardens. A nice quiet little garden where old Chinese people like to go
and shout at each other.
Lunch: Bistro Manchu, Manchurian food. Noodles with chopped pork – subtle and
nice. Burdoc leaf - yum. Beef in sesame pocket – excellent. Harbin Beer – the oldest beer in China,
really good.